REMINSCENCE — EARLY ADVENTURES — INDIANS

The following account of personal matters is given to show the disadvantages under which the hardy pioneers procured the homes which now seem so comfortable. Whatever of romance adhered to the hardy colonists, was abundantly compensated for by hard work and severe trials. Contrast the journey of that devoted party through the roadless and bridgeless tract between their destination and Chicago, with that of a party on a like journey to-day. Instead of weeks of labor and toil, hardship and suffering, with cold and hunger, a seat is taken in a palace car at noon in Chicago, an unexceptional supper is partaken of without leaving the train, the passenger retires upon a downy couch, and in the morning awakes to find himself at his point of destination in central or northern Iowa, having lost only half a day in making the journey. Those who enjoy these blessings would be less than human if they were not filled with gratitude to these early settlers, who paved the way, and actually made the present condition of things possible. At that time the confines of civilization were on the lakes; Chicago had not many thousand people, Milwaukee was just beginning to be a village, and Dubuque was a mere vidette, an outpost of civilization. There was nothing in the now great State of Iowa, except the intrinsic merit of the location, to attract people from their more or less comfortable homes in the east, or on the other side of the water. The hope as to the future, which "springs eternal in the human heart," was what lured them on, and although those who came were usually regarded by the friends they left as soldiers of fortune, who, if they ever returned at all, would indeed be fortunate; still, in the face of this attempt to dissuade them from their purpose, they came, and with brave hearts began their pioneer life. They were a sturdy race, who realized the inequality of the struggle in the old States or countries, and they resolved to plant themselves where merit would not be suppressed by tradition.

The men who came, were, as a rule, enterprising, open hearted and sympathetic, they were good neighbors, and thus good neighborhoods were created. In their association together, they illustrated the true idea of the brotherhood of man, more by actions than by quoting creeds, and they stood by one another with a bravery that never blanched in the presence of the most appalling danger. They were never-the-less tender, kind and considerate in the presence of misfortune, and their deficiency in outward manifestatons of piety was more than compensated by their love and regard for humanity. And if this need of praise is justly due to the men, and it certainly is, what shall be said of the heroic women, who braved the vicissitudes of frontier life, endured the absence of home, friends and old associates, the severing of whose tender ties must have wrung all hearts. The devotion which would lead to such a breaking away, to follow a father, a husband or a son into the trackless wilderness beyond the Mississippi, where gloomy apprehensions must have arisen in the mind, is above all praise. The value of the part taken by the noble women who first came to this uninhabited region cannot be over-estimated. Although by nature, liberal, they practiced the most rigid economy, and often at critical times preserved order, reclaiming the men from despair during gloomy periods, and their example of industry constantly admonished the husband to renewed exertion, and the instincts of womanhood always encouraged integrity and manhood.

As to the effects of frontier life upon those who have secured homes west of the Mississippi, a few observations may not be inappropriate.

Years ago the Rev. Dr. Bushnell, a noted eastern divine, preached a sermon on the barbarous tendencies of civilization in the west, and on this the reverend gentleman predicated an urgent and eloquent appeal to Christianity, to put forth renewed and strenuous efforts to save the west from a relapse into barbarism. This tendency was supposed to result from the disruption of social and religious ties, the mingling of heterogeneous elements, and the removal of the external restraints, so common, and supposed to be so patent in older communities. Dr. Bushnell did not have a sufficiently extended view of the subject, for, in looking over the history of the past, we find that in a nomadic condition there is never any real progress in refinement. Institutions for the elevation of the race must be planted deep in the soil before they can raise their heads, in beauty and majesty, towards Heaven, and bear fruit for the enlightenment of the Nation. The evils of which Dr. Bushnell was so afraid, are merely temporary in their character, and will have no lasting impression. What actually happens is this, at first there is an obvious increase of human freedom, but the element of self government largely predominates, and the fusion of the races, which is inevitable, will, in due time, create a composite nationality, or race, as unlike as it must be superior to those that have preceded it. Even now, before the first generation has passed away, society in the west has outgrown the irritation of tranplanting, and there are no more vicious elements in society here, than in east, as the criminal statistics will abundantly prove.

Northern Iowa is not, to-day, what it was a quarter of a century ago. The hardships and privations experienced by those earliest settlers, who faced the dangers and discouragements of frontier life, now furnish subjects for fireside stories, to listening, wondering ones, who, with the comforts and pleasant surroundings of the present, can scarcely credit these narratives of the past. In those early days, twenty-five years ago, the long winters were often scenes of privation and suffering hardly credable. There were no mills, no stores, no railroads, in this part of Iowa then; and more than once, a husband and father traversed the trackless prairie, clear to Decorah, in Winneshiek county, nearly 100 miles, over the drifted snow, through storms and winds and returned, drawing upon a simple hand-sled, the provisions necessary to keep his suffering family from actual starvation. Often inventive genius came to the aid of these hardy pioneers, and we have heard of several instances where hand-sleds of a large size were rigged out with sails and rudders, and then before the breeze they sped away over the snow-crested billowy sea of land, like phantom ships on the briny ocean.

REMINSCENCE
by David Secor

On a pleasant June morning, in the spring of 1859, in company with John Lamm, an old settler of Winnebago county, I started from Mason City, on foot, to look for the first time on the land of the Winnebagoes. My traveling companion had resided for some time at Forest City, which was also familiarly known by the name of Pucker Brush.

About half way on our journey we were confronted by a marshy slough not then bridged, and known as the "big sloo," which was swollen by recent rains. My genial and accommodating companion, wishing to initiate me by degrees in the hardships of frontier life, kindly offered to land me on the other side dry shod if I would jump on his back. The invitation was accepted with thanks. Since that time I have often, when passing the place in company with others, used this circumstance to make a pun and create some amusement by stating that I once rode across that slough on a lamb's (Lamm's) back.

We reached Forest City about sundown, somewhat weary from our walk of thirty miles. We expected to return to Mason City in a few days, and concluded to return by water by navigating Lime creek.

We therefore constructed a raft of black walnut and butternut boards, at the saw-mill, and made our return trip on this raft, which contained about 3,000 feet of lumber. Mr. Lamm acted as captain, and the writer as second mate.

We loosed our moorings just after dinner, and glided smoothly over the placid waters of Lime creek until we reached Elk Grove, where we timed up for the night and enjoyed the hospitality of a settler by name of Stiles.

The next day we reached a point about two miles north of Mason City, where we shipwrecked our craft on a rock. Being so near the place of our destination, we left the raft for the night and hauled the lumber by teams the next day. The wild ducks and geese, which at that time were very abundant, surprised at the sight of such strange objects floating down the stram, would arise in their fright and fly rapidly away. On the morning of the second day, the first mate accidentally let his pocketbook drop in the stream, observing which the brave captain plunged boldly into the water and rescued the first mate's wealth before it vanished from sight.

In the early settlement of the county all enjoyed equal social rights and privileges. There was no aristocracy in those days, and fashions had not found the way to these western wilds. To convey some idea of the simple manner in which life was enjoyed, it may be well to state that we were so fortunate as to find accommodations with a company of seven persons, who slept in a small building on a pile of shavings, and there, seven in a row, with shavings for our bed and pillows, we enjoyed peaceful and refreshing sleep. A steam saw-mill had been built at an early period in the history of the settlement, and it was of great benefit to the community in furninshing boards and lumber for houses, and also enabled them to make rough tables, benches, bedstands, etc. it was our privilege to commence housekeeping with furniture made by our own hands.

The Winnebago Indians were quite numerous when the first white settlers came to the county. The Sioux Indians came in occasionally. There was a deadly enmity existing between these tribes, and when they met, as they would occasionally, there was music in the air, and a sanguinary conflict would follow.

The Indians were in the county more or less until the year 1862, when they were driven away by the United States government on account of their taking part in the bloody massacre at New Ulm and Mankato, Minn., and at Spirit Lake, Iowa. At this time there was a great excitement throughout this part of the country. Many people fled to the older and more settled portions of the State. The first news of the massacre reached the settlement by refugees from Minnesota, who arrived at Forest City about two o'clock at night, and gave the alarm. The people being aroused from their slumber, at dead of night, and being told of the massacre and that the Indians were upon them, were in tensely excited and some fled. Those remaining, at once organized for protection, and sent out scouts to watch for the Indians. The scouts returned and reported that the Indians had been driven back and the excitement soon passed over.

The Indians were quite adept in playing games with cards, and were always ready to play with the whites for whisky or money. During the games there were always some innocent appearing Indians about, not indicating that they were paying attention to the game, but who in fact would see what cards the white men held, and by secret signs would communicate that knowledge to their red brothers, who took part in the game. If the whites were not posted in Indian tricks, they were quite sure to be euchered.

The first white settlement was made in the county in 1854 and 1855. Philip Tennis, George Thomas, John Maben and Thomas Bearse were the first to settle in the county. Others soon followed. Philip Tennis was killed by the Indians, in 1863, on the Sioux river, where he had gone for the purpose of trapping for fur.

George Thomas resides on his farm near Lake Mills, where he first settled, and is regarded as one of our best farmers. John Maben is now treasurer of Hancock county. Mr. Bearse removed from the county several years ago. Many amusing stories are told of him, only one of which we will relate.

It was during the War of the Rebellion, that he came to town one morning, somewhat excited, and stated that we would soon hear of one of the greatest battles of the war, for he had that morning seen the smoke of the battle in the south. The person with whom he was speaking laughed at him and told him he could not see the smoke of a battle that far, when he promptly replied: "I did see the smoke, and furthermore, by G-d, I smelt powder."

In 1857 a postoffice was established at Forest City, with Robert Clark postmaster, and in 1858 a mail route was secured from Clear Lake to Algona, by way of Forest City, with Joseph Hewett, mail-carrier. Previous to this the settlers were required to go to Mason City for their mail, and indeed the first settlers received their mail at Cedar Falls. At this time there was no flouring mill nearer than fifty miles, and the earliest settlers were obliged to go to Cedar Falls, a distance of 100 miles, for flour. Previous to 1860 the nearest market for grain and pork was McGregor and Dubuque, and with wheat at forty cents a bushel, and dressed pork at two cents a pound, a load would not pay the expenses of a trip to market. As railroads pushed westward the distance to market became gradually shortened. Many strange experiences were had by the early settlers in getting to and from market. On Dec. 2, 1856, one Alexander Long, in attempting to reach a neighboring settlement was caught in a snow blizzard and frozen to death. His body was not found for several weeks. These trips were frequently made with ox teams, as but few were able to afford horses. My first team was a yoke of oxen, with which I used to ride my wife and babies. We once drove an ox team to Independence to market, a distance of 130 miles, or 200 miles for the round trip.

Some amusing things have occurred in the history of the county. The standard of religion and morality was not of the highest type, and the early preachers were not always received with that respect usually accorded to those in clerical robes. The first preacher that filled stated appointments was an itinerant Methodist minister, by the name of Hankins, who traveled a circuit of some fifty or sixty miles, and who had to all appearances been a rough character before he experienced religion. He traveled his circuit with an old horse and buggy. While preaching at Forest city he had offended some of the worldly minded people, and, in order to retaliate, some wicked son of Belial suggested the idea of taking the burs off his buggy. He hitched up his horse to make the next appointment without discovering what had been done, and started off at his usual gait, but had not proceeded far before a wheel run off and let him down. He returned with the old man Adam fully aroused and would have administered severe physical punishment had he discovered the guilty party.

Soon after this a preacher was holding services in Forest City one night, when some wicked boys took a donkey and placed him in the entrance of the building where he was preaching, and by torturing the poor brute induced the donkey to sing one of his songs. The preacher hearing the music, and taking in the situation at once, remarked: "I have heard of the devil going about like a roaring lion, but to-night he has come in the form of a braying ass!"

In 1862 a man, by name Scrogin, was traveling through the county on foot, and becoming foot sore and weary took a hose, without leave, owned by Samuel Tennis, that was running at large on the prairie near Forest City. He rode him several miles and then let him loose, supposing he would return home. The horse was missed the next day, and John S. Blowers, in company with another settler, started in pusuit. Mr. Blowers was sure scent when after a hose thief and soon struck the trail, which he followed until he captured his man. Mr. Blowers had an old revolver of the style called a pepper box, which he was careful to load before starting. While following up the trail they came upon a skunk, which he endeavored to shoot with his pepper box, but found that he could not discharge either barrel, and like a "dead Injine" his revolver was no go. The thief was overtaken in the north part of Wright county and Blowers levelled his revolver on him and commanded him to surrender. Being confronted with so deadly a weapon, and thinking discretion the better part of valor, he gave himself up and returned to Forest City. district court had been in session in Forest City, but had just adjourned. Court was held in the county only once a year. The following week court was held at Mason City and the prisoner was taken there in order to have trail in that county, at that term of court, if possible. In order to give the court jurisdiction it was necessary to show that the horse had been taken by Scrogin into or across that county. The facts are he did not take the horse within several miles of Cerro Gordo county, but the prisoner did not relish the thought of remaining in the county jail a year, and wishing to have a speedy trial, he told the judge that he passed through that county. this seemed to give the court jurisdiction, and he was tried, found guilty, and sentenced to the penitentiary at Fort Madison for a short term. The following amusing circumstance in relation to this case is given on the authority of "Old Timber Wood", who at that time practiced in the courts of the district and was the prisoner's attorney. The officer who had taken the prisoner to Mason City was anxious to take him to the penitentiary, and was permitted to do so. It was before the time of railroads, and took several days to make the trip. The officer started with the commitment, prisoner and shackles. At night they slept together, and, in order to prevent escape, the prisoner was shackled to the officer. Before reaching Fort Madison, the prisoner some how managed to get possession of the commitment, and when they arrived at the penitentiary he promptly handed it to the warden and represented himself as the sheriff. Appearances were somewhat in his favor, and the sheriff was promptly locked up and the prisoner walked leisurely away. The sheriff was obliged to send for friends to identify him in order to get released.

In the early settlement of the county game of all kinds was very abundant, and while the writer was never much of a hunter he feels inclined to relate a chicken story.

In the fall of 1862, there was a crop of buckwheat on block 95, in the south part of Forest City. the prairie chickens soon found it and were destroying the crop very rapidly. The writer, thinking the chicken crop was about ready to harvest, left his place of business one afternoon, after school was dismissed for the day, and went to the buckwheat patch with a double-barrel shot gun, for an hours sport, and reached the place just as the chickens were flying in for their supper. He at once opened fire, but getting somewhat excited, unfortunately put shot and wads in both barrels of the gun before charging it with powder. This caused no little trouble and delay, and he could only spend time to draw off one barrel and thereafter used only one barrel in shooting. Notwithstanding the misfortune of the horn in charging with shot before he did with powder -- nineteen nice prairie chickens were slaughtered and bagged before sun-down.

Not far from this time, wishing to have some fun at duck shooting, a trip down Lime creek was made one afternoon, and thirty ducks killed and brought back as trophies.

The following snake story is given on the authority of Amos Chilson. Several years ago, within the limits of Forest City, and near the north part of the town, on a pleasant spring morning, Mr. Chilson saw several snakes crawling about, and on looking around he found the place, or den, from which they came, and opend battle on them. He killed those in sight and then commenced digging at the mouth of the den -- slaughtering the snakes as he dug. The winters frosts had not been thawed out of the ground and he soon found his digging intercepted by the frost. He therefore abandoned his digging, but on counting his prey he found that he had killed seventy-three good sized snakes. In relating the story he remarked that "he would have done much better if the frost had been out of the ground and it had been a good day for snakes."

Previous to the year 1865, there was but little attention paid to farming, owing principally to the distance from market and the great expense in transporting the products of the farm to the marts of the world.

The population of the county is 1865 was only 298. In 1869 the population had increased to 1,072. In 1870 it was 1,572, and in 1880 about 5,000.

From the settlement of the county to the year 1865, a majority of the settlers expected to make their living by holding township and county offices, or by hunting, trapping or trading with the neighbors. Money was scarce and they used in its stead, county, bridge, school house and road orders. Many county and township jobs were let at fabulous prices. The result was that these orders were sold as low as forty cents on the dollar. The low price of the scrip was overcome, however, by a liberal allowance for the services performed. All persons elected to office were expected to appreciate the honor conferred on them by treating liberally over their election. It would not do to neglect this important requirement, and if one went home without meeting htis popular demand, he was liable to be waited on by a committee who would inform him that his presence was desired, and that he was expected to provide such refreshments as their several appetites craved.

As railroads approached nearer, the inhabitants began to pay attention to agricultural industry. New settlers came in and the virgin soil, that had remained int he state of nature for ages, was brought under cultivation and produced bountiful crops.

With industry came habits of temperance and morality. Churches and school houses were erected, and Winnebago county now enjoys educational advantages, religious privileges and social rights equal to that of counties in the eastern and older states. And may we not hope, that in succeeding years, our growth in temperance, industry, morality and virtue may keep pace with the increase of population, and that our children and our children's children may here enjoy many prosperous and happy days and may love and serve the Lord of their fathers.

EARLY ADVENTURES

The following histiric items are clipped from the Winnebago Summit of Dec. 21, 1882:
"We received a very pleasant call this week from Mr. Thomas Bearse, who was the first actual white settler of this county. Philip, son of Samuel Tennis, came here in 1854 to hunt and trap, and he induced Mr. Bearse, who was then living at Rhodes' mill, to come up with his family and locate in Winnebago county. Mr. Bearse came in the spring of 1855, and built a log house on the east side of Lime creek, in the edge of the timber, nearly on a line directy east of Forest City depot.

"In May, of the same year, Mr. Bearse had an encounter with a bear, near Bear creek. He went out, at this time, taking along his rifle, and saw a bear. The bear was not near enough to shoot at, and was finally lost sight of. In returning home Mr. Bearse saw two bears that were coming toward him. He got behind a large poplar tree, and waited until one of them came near enough to fire at, when he discharged his rifle, sending a ball through the animal. The bear continued to advance, and gathered up a handful of leaves to stanch the wound in his side, the same as a person might do under similar circumstances. When the bear reached the tree, behind which Mr. Bearse stood, he climbed up it a short distance, but being weak from the loss of blood, fell back on the ground. Mr. Bearse drew his knife, and as he was engaged in cutting the throat of the wounded bear, its mate came up behind him, and putting his paws around him, began hugging him in good old bear fashion. In the struggle which took place, the bear struck the knife out of Mr. Bearse's hand, which left him to contend with bruin single handed. He finally found a piece of burned limb, and struck the bear across the face with it, knocking him down, and then the bear ran off. Mr. Bearse was quite severely scratched in the struggle with the bear, but not seriously hurt.

"Mr. Bearse continued to reside in this county about twelve years, when he removed, but about one year ago he returned, and now makes his home with E.D. Skinner, in Norway township.

"Among other things he talked of were the Indians, who used to roam over this section. The Winnebagoes had their agency about forty miles north of here, up in Minnesota, and used to frequent this section to hunt. The Sioux, who were located still further north, and the Winnebagoes were deadly enemies, and when the latter came there to hunt, the former used to follow them and try to kill them. On one occasion ten Sioux came to Mr. Bearse's house, but went away without doing any harm. On this same occasion, this same crowd killed a Winnebago, at Clear Lake, shooting him off a horse, and then cutting his head off and carrying it away to scalp it. At one time, while Mr. Bearse was living at Forest City, Eagle Eye, a Sioux chief, who was pursued by his enemies, the Winnebagoes, took refuge in his house and was protected by him, and the pursuers driven away.

"Those were the days when deer were plenty in this section, and Mr. Bearse says that he and Philip Tennis have had as many as 300 at one time hanging up in the woods. These animals were killed for their skins, and their carcasses were left for other wild animals to feed on."

INDIANS

When the first settlers landed in Winnebago county, and for several years after, there were several bands of Indians, of the Winnebago tribe, who made this their home. their number varied - at times there were fully 100, again but a handful. During the summer they would bury their pots and kettles in the ground, and, leaving their tepees standing, would go north into Minnesota to hunt and trap, returning in the fall, laden with the spoils of the chase. For the most part they were harmless, and seldom attempted violence. They were, however, meddlesome and inclined to thievishness, and often caused the settlers much annoyance. But when such was the case, three cool, brave men could go into a camp where fifty Indians were collected, and invariably get back the stolen articles.

At one time Robert Stephens and family left their home to visit John S. Blowers, about a mile distant. In the middle of the afternoon, Mr. Stephens returned home alone, and on reaching his house found the door broken open, and on examination discovered that a number of trinkets and provisions had been stolen. He at once returned to Mr. Blowers and related what had occurred. They decided that the depredation had been committed by the Indians. Accordingly, Frank Byford, Blowers, Stephens and John Furney started for the Indian camp to reclaim the stolen articles. They went to Porter, the head chief, and demanded that the loss be made good. After a brief consultation among the Indians, the blame of the theft was laid to Black Pigeon, who offered to give a blanket and new gun to settle the difficulty. This offer was accepted by the whites, who then demanded some traps that had been stolen some days previous. These were also returned. As the whites were about leaving the tepee, an Indian by the name of Toshanigan attempted to push by them through the entrance. He had a gun partly concealed beneath his blanket, and his looks betokened mischief. Porter, the chief, suddenly said, in a tone of warning, "Be careful, Toshanigan is angry." The situation was at once taken in by the whites, and Stephens, wheeling upon the Indian, grasped the muzzle of the gun, and shoving him back into the tepee, said, "By G-d! if you don't put up that gun and sit down, I'll cut a hickory and give you the worst hickorying you ever got." Toshanigan sat down, and the whites went away unmolested. The Indians were by no means desirous of having a war with the whites, and the settler who preserved a calm, determinged bearing among them was never harmed.

Philip Tennis was sitting before his fire one wintry night, partly undressed, when suddenly the door was burst upen and in dashed a half dozen Indians. They were intoxicated, and at once made for Mr. Tennis, showing signs of hostility. He promptly met them, knocked one over into the fire, then leaped through the door out in to the night. The Indians searched for him in vain; he was safely hidden in the bushes, and they soon left, venting their disappointment in howls and whoops of rage.

They were very fond of liquor, and would use any means to get a pint of whiskey. One by the name of Dick Sharo came to John Blowers' mill one time, and offered to give him a bear skin for a pint of whiskey. Mr. Blowers said no, that he had no whiskey. But the Indian insisted, and finally Blowers said, "Where is your bear skin?" The Indian replied, making a motion with his hands and feet as though the bear was still running, 'Ugh! me kill um - me killum, morrow."

¹History of Kossuth, Hancock and Winnebago Counties, Iowa. Springfield, Illinois: Union Publishing Company, 1884. 743-53.