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January, 1863, Number I
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ARTICLE II.
HIST0RY OF SCOTT COUNTY, IOWA.
BY WILLARD
BARROWS, ESQUIRE, OF DAVENPORT.
MEMOIR BY THE EDITOR. |
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| CHAPTER II |
| FIRST SETTLEMENT OF BUFFALO
TOWNSHIP. |
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In 18S3, Capt. Benjamin W. Clark, a
native of Virginia, who had settled and made some
improvements on the Illinois shore where the town of
Andalusia now is, moved across the Mississippi and
commenced a settlement upon the present site of the town of
Buffalo, and was probably the first settler on the soil of
Scott county. He had been Captain of a company of mounted
volunteer Rangers in the Black Hawk War, under Gen. Dodge.
Here in Buffalo, he made the first “claim,” erected the
first cabin, broke the first ground, planted the first
corn, and raised the first produce m the county. His
nearest neighbors at this time upon the Iowa shore, then
called the “Black Hawk Purchase, ” were at Burlington and Du
Buque.
The first stock of goods ever opened in thee
county, was at Buffalo by a Mr. Lynde, of Stepenson, now
Rock Island. The first orchard planted, and the first
coal ever discovered and dug in this comity, were by Capt. Clark, in I854. The first public Ferry across the
Mississippi, between Burlington and Du Buque, was at Buffalo, and for several year, “Clark's Ferry” was
the only
place in the early part of the year l835, he erected a public
house which is still standing, a large frame building two
stories high, which was considered a
great enterprise. He brought the lumber from
Cincinnati, at a cost of sixty dollar, a
thousand feet.
In 1836, Capt. Clark laid out the
town of Buffalo, it being the first town regularly laid
out in this county. He succeeded in building up quite a village;
but there was much need of flouring and lumber mills, and in
1836 he erected, near the mouth of Duck Creek, the first saw mill in the county, or in this part of Iowa;
and although it was on a small scale, and in this part quite
inadequate to the wants of the
settlers who began to seek homes beyond the Mississippi, yet it
proved of the greatest
public benefit, and served the people for many years.
The Ferry was established at Buffalo, while Capt. Clark
lived at Andalusia, before he moved across the river. The
first ferriage collected by him, after he had completed
his flat boat, was attended by the following amusing
circumstance. Late one evening, a company of French
traders, who were returning from the Iowa river to the
Trading Post on Rock Island, encamped on the bank of the
river where the Hotel now stands in Buffalo. They heard
the report of the Captain’s intention to establish a ferry
across the river at this point, and feeling somewhat
inclined to ridicule such an enterprise, they called
loudly for the ferry boat, saying that they had a drove
of cattle to cross, an assertion perfectly ridiculous in
itself, as nothing in the shape of cattle nearer than
buffalo or elk had ever appeared on the western banks of
the Mississippi river. But the Captain was not to be trifled
with. He had made ready his boat. His ferry was established,
and being a man of bold, and most unflinching,
uncompromising sternness and perseverance, he rallied his
men, manned his boat with some eight men and boys, and
very quietly crossed over to answer the continued calls
of the noisy Frenchmen. It was a very dark night, and as
the oars were plied to the ponderous flat boat, Capt.
Clark stood at the helm steering his rude craft over the
swelling waves of the Mississippi with nothing to guide him
but the blaze of the camp fire and noise of the company on
the Iowa shore, meditating most undoubtedly in a frame
of mind not the most serene. When nearing the shore, the
traders on discovering him set up a most uncourteous
roar of laughter, turning the whole matter off as a joke; called them fools, and told the captain they had
nothing to ferry, and that he might return to the Illinois.
But Capt. Clark’s anger was now raised to the highest
pitch. He landed his boat, and with his men marched into
the camp of the insolent Frenchmen, and demanded ten
dollars as a fee for ferriage. No man who knew Capt. Clark
ever wanted to parly with him when his usually mild
temper was aroused by insult. The party soon became
satisfied that, under the circumstances, it was their
best policy to pay up. The great difficulty now was that
they had not ten dollars in the company, but very willingly
proffered two bolts of calico, which, among Indians, at
least, was considered legal tender. This was accepted
and taken as the first ferriage ever received in Scott
county. Capt. Clark and has
party returned, having taught the wild traders one of the
first lessons of civilization.
Capt. Clark claimed the
honor of being the father of the first white child born
in Scott county. This son, David H. Clark, now a resident
of Polk county, in this State, was born in Buffalo, the
“21st of April, 1834.
For many years the town of
Buffalo attracted much attention, and bid fair to become a
serious rival to Stephenson, then just merging into
existence. But Davenport and Rockingham were soon laid
off, and a ferry being established between Davenport and
Stephenson, by Mr. Le Clair, travel was directed to that
point, and the division of the country into counties left
Buffalo in no enviable situation. It had been the most
prosperous town in this region of country, doing a large
business with the emigrants to the Territory, who were
then beginning to settle up and down the river and along
the Cedar valley, furnishing grain and provisions of
all kinds to the new comers. Capt. Clark spent much time in
showing emigrants the country and assisting them in making
claims, and probably did mole towards the early settlement
of this country than any other man that ever came into
it. He died at Buffalo, Oct. 25th, 1839.
To show the
prospects of Buffalo, as a point of interest at that day,
we might relate a circumstance that occurred in reference to the value of town lots. After Davenport was laid out,
Maj. Wm. Gordon and some others, proprietors, called on
Capt. Clark, and offered him an even exchange of forty
or sixty lots in Davenport for an equal number in
Buffalo. But the Captain declined, regarding it as a poor
offer, as it probably looked to be at that time.
It will
be seen, by reference to the map of Scott county, that it
lacks a township in the south west corner, (No. 78 N. R. 1
E.), of being square. As it has always been a mystery to
many, particularly to the new comer, why this township
should have been set off to Muscatine county, while it so
naturally belonged to Scott, I will here explain.
In
the first Territorial Legislature, which convened at
Burlington, in December, 1837, an act was passed creating
the boundaries of Scott county, as well as many others.
Unfortunately for the well-being of many a town site and
village, this honorable body had too many speculators in
town lots among its members. Dr. Reynolds., then living
three milos above Bloomington, now Muscatine, being a member, had laid off a place called
Geneva, uponwhich all his efforts for the county seat
were centered. The manner and extent, in laying off the
counties, were of course, to decide the destiny of many a
town site which had been made especially for the county
seat. The object of Dr. Reynolds was to press the upper
line of Muscatine county up the river as far as posible,
so as to make Geneva central, and lessen the chances of
Bloomington, which was an applicant for favors The Davenport
and Rockingham member, Alex. W. McGregor, Esq., knew
that if the Scott county line ran too far down the river,
Buffalo, then a rival, and by far the most populous and
important town above Burlington, would stand too great a
chance, so that a compromise was entered into, and this
township was given to Muscatine county, which gives to our
county its present ill-shaped appearance.
Buffalo,
with all her just claims, was sacrificed, by placing her
in the lower end of the county. Dr. Reynolds’ grand scheme
was frustrated, for Bloomington got the county seat for
Muscatine county, and Davenport and Rockingham “doubled
teams” on Buffalo, got the county seat, and then fought
for choice of location, as will be noticed under its proper head. This was the killing stroke to Buffalo.
Davenport ultimately received all the benefits derived
from the trickery and corruption of legislative enactments,
while Geneva, Montpelier, Salem, Freeport, Mouth of Pine,
and some half dozen more towns that were laid out along
the Mississippi river from Muscatine Island to Davenport, “went under,” carrying with them all their visionary
schemes for greatness and power.
Buffalo township has
more timber land than any other in the county. There are
thousands of acres now covered with a growth that has
arisen since the first settlement, that will cut from twenty
to fifty cords of wood to the acre. It is estimated that
there is five times as much timber in Buffalo township,
as there was at the time of the first settlement in 1834.
A fact showing how easily timber may be produced if
cared, for, and the annual fires kept out of the
woodlands.
There is another very important item to appear
in the history of this township. Coal was first
discovered here in 1834, and as early as 1835 and 1816
was dug and sold to steamboats at the mouth of Bowling’s
Creek, which empties into the Mississippi about half way between Buffalo and
Rockingham. The first bank opened was about half a mile up
this Creek, and was worked to considerable extent by Dr. A.
C. Donaldson, who settled in 1887, near its mouth. Still
higher up this creek, some three miles, Benj. Wright and
Capt. E. Murray, from Zanesville, Ohio, opened a bank in
1838, and furnished coal to Davenport and Rockingham, for
fifteen cents per bushel and from that day to this, mines
have been opened and worked in almost every part of the
township, until at the present time, more than
twenty-five coal mines are [open and ready for work. The
most extensive now in operation, are near Buffalo, and
belong to Capt. W. L. Clark & Co., who are getting, out
about one thousand bushels per day. They are preparing to
lay a rail track to the river, and when completed, the
company will be able to deliver on the bank, or in
barges, from two thousand five hundred to four thousand
bushels per day. Their road will accommodate many other
banks now opened, and that will be opened along the track.
The coal now obtained is far superior to that formerly
dug, and is said to be a better article for making steam,
and for other purposes, giving off more flame and igniting
very readily. Experienced steamboat men, who have examined
this coal, and used it, say that one thousand bushels of it
will go further, and make more steam, than twelve
hundred bushels of the Rock River coal.
Capt. W. L.
Clark, son of the original proprietor of Buffalo, is now
a resident of Davenport, but holds large interests of lands
and coal banks in this county. The very lands claimed by
his father in 1832, soon after the Black Hawk war, are
still in the possession of Capt. W. L. Clark.
James
M. Bowling, from Virginia, now a resident of Davenport,
settled in Buffalo township, the 4th of July, 1833, at the
mouth of Bowling’s creek. He purchased the “claim” of one
Orange Babbatt, the quit claim deed to which has recently
been presented to the State Historical Society by Mr.
Bowling. This property now belongs to Capt. Leroy Dodge.
Mr. Bowling commenced farming, in 1815. That fall, he went
hack to Virginia, married, and returned, in 1836, with
his wife and two sisters. In 1887, he had the prospect of
a. fine crop, but the Indians, who still loitered about
the country, were encamped upon this creek. In June,
there were some five hundred Indians living near him, and
very
troublesome. They set fire to the prairie and burned
up the fences surrounding
his corn, which was at the time six inches high. The
Indian horses then ate much of it, and he Was compelled in
the heat of summer to cut timber and make rails to enclose
his field again ; but, notwithstanding all his
misfortune, he succeeded in raising a very good crop. The
Indians, however, were a constant annoyance to him.
In
his absence, on one occasion, a lot of Indians came to the
house, and Mrs. Bowling having the doors fastened by putting
a gimlet over the latch, with his sisters, remained in
silence for some time, until they pushed out the chinking
of the cabin near the door, and running in their arms,
pulled out the gimlet, when Mrs. Bowling and sisters
braced themselves against the door, and by main strength
kept them at bay, until, weary of the effort to make an
entry, they left the premises. This is but one instance
among many of the trials and hardships to which the first
settlers were exposed, and through which they passed with
patience and toil.
Although Buffalo became almost
extinct, after her defeat and downfall, yet, in 1855, it
was re-surveyed and mostly purchased by the Germans who
settled in and around the town. It has a steam mill,
three stores, an Episcopal church organized, and one of
Disciples, or Christians. Both societies worship in the
schoolhouse. Buffalo now contains about five hundred
inhabitants, and is one of the most beautiful town sites
on the Mississippi river.
Many of the first settlers of
this township are still living at Buffalo, enjoying in
affluence the sure reward of their early struggles. One
among the many who have retired from the more active
pursuits of life, and now enjoy life’s comforts, is Capt.
Leroy Dodge, who emigrated to Iowa, in 1866, from the
State of New York. he was, for many years, a pilot on
the Mississippi, and then commander of steamboats. Having
secured some four hundred acres along the river and bluff
above Buffalo, he built him a pleasant cottage on the
banks of the river, and turned his attention to
agriculture, principally to stock raising, of which he has
some noble specimens. In 1852, he represented Scott
county in our State Legislature. He was an unflinching
Democrat, and loved the cause of human rights.
Among
others who settled, at an 'early day, in this township,
were Joseph and Matthias Mounts, Elias Moore and Andrew W.
Campbell. Mr. Campbell was among the most enterprising of
the early settlers having opened a large farm on the bottom
land of the river. He
sold it to Henry C. Morehead, at an early day, and
removed to the prairie, near where the town of Blue Grass
now is, where he opened another large farm that now
belongs to his heirs. He was elected, in February, 1838,
one of the County Commissioners, it being the first election
ever held for officers under the county organization. He
also filled, other places of responsibility and trust.
Being fond of travel and adventure, he frequently took
excursions into the interior of Iowa, while it was yet in
possession of the Indians, seeming to forget all business
cares and enjoy very much the solitude and loveliness of
our western wilds. In the spring of 1850, he crossed the
plains to California and returned by way of the Isthmus
that fall. The following summer, he again set forth for
California, by the overland route, in company with a son
and a married daughter, whose husband was in California, his health had been for years somewhat impaired and his
constitution broken. On Green river, in the Great Basin of
the Rocky Mountains, he sickened and died, and his bones
are left to moulder in the cheerless desert, with no
lasting monument to point the weary pilgrim to his lonely
grave. |
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